Peasant Dresses and Tops and 3-Piece Lined Patch Pockets

There seems to be a trend with my sewing for the girls lately that leads directly to the peasant dress/top.  Older entries show pictures of a dresses for all three granddaughters made in this style.  I used Kwik Sew 3665 for the little girls and Simplicity 2377 for V.   I liked the fit so much that I decided to use it to make a top for V for school as well.  This is fabric she picked out a year ago that I never made up, and I'm glad I waited.  She absolutely loves the denim capri pants and the top made from fabric she picked out. 

To make the top, I just used the bodice, sleeves, and first section of the dress skirt pattern.  I sewed all but one of the side seams.  I left it open to add the bottom ruffle.  To do this,  I cut two widths of fabric 3.5" wide and sewed them together, serging the seam and one of the long edges for a finished hem.  Then I used my gathering foot on my sewing machine to make a nice, full ruffle.  I attached this to the red fabric at the bottom of the peasant top with my serger, which automatically finished the edge.  Then I sewed and serged the side seam shut.  The last thing done was turning the serged edge at the bottom of the ruffle and sewing it up to finish the hem.

I wanted to do something special to tie the top and pants together, so I decided that the patch pockets I wanted to add to the back needed to have both of the top fabrics included.  I wasn't sure how to do this at first, so I went to my Wild Ginger Child's Play to see what kind of pockets they included.  They have one that is similar to this, but is just one layer.  I wanted a lined pocket so the inside wouldn't catch on little fingers.  I devised my own out of three pieces that works really well. The directions follow.

1. Decide on a size for your pocket.  I made mine 4" squares, and I used 1/2" seam allowances on them.  For each pocket I cut two print  rectangles that were 5" X 4" for the bottom section and one red polka dot rectangle that was 3" X 5" for the top section. 
2. I sewed the one of the print pieces to the 5" side of the polka dot piece, and then sewed the other print piece to the opposite side of the polka dot piece.  Press open the seams. 
3. Turn the pocket so the right sides are together, matching the seam lines on the two sides. 
4. Sew one seam from the folded edge to the bottom.  Press it open and trim triangles off both top and bottom. At this point, two sides of the pocket are open--the other side and the bottom.  
5. You will turn the pocket right side out at the bottom after the second side is sewn, but you want to mark the hem before you sew the second side.  I like to use my machine's longest stitch length (6 mm) to put in basting where a hem is to be turned, so at this point I set up my machine to do this. Through a single layer of fabric, I put a row of basting stitches 1/2" from the bottom edge and press it up so it is easy to turn it after the other seam is finished.  
6. Then I can sew the second seam (using my regular stitch length, and yes, sometimes I forget to change it back), press it open, and trim the triangles from top and bottom.  
7. Turn the pocket to the right side, turn up the bottom hem, and place it on the pants where you want the pockets to appear. 
8. Sew the pocket to the pants.  I like to use an edge stitch foot that has a bar down the center to help me make a consistent edge seam.  I simply move my needle over about 1.5 mm, which gives me a secure pocket seam width. 

Sewing for Myself

When I first started to sew, I was a perfect size 12 pattern and could go to the fabric store, buy a pattern, and sew it up over the weekend to wear to work on Monday.  Of course this was before kids.  I did have to make alterations to pants because I have short legs, and I had to take out at least 4", but there was a line on the pattern I could fold and just take out the amount I needed and be done with it.  That was 35+ years ago, and it doesn't work that way now, unfortunately!  I've become a bit shorter and much rounder, so sewing is much more of a challenge.  Enter two things--patterns that are sized for more realistic bodies and pattern making software.  We've come a long way, baby!

I've tried several programs that let you put in your measurements and get a pattern printed, and keep coming back to Wild Ginger's products.  I have four of the products: the original, Pattern Master Boutique and the sleepwear/undergarment/exercise wear program, Curves, the new Pattern Master Knits, and Child's Play, the program for sewing children's clothing.  I really, really love these programs.  The original learning curve is steep, and because they are updated quarterly you might have to go through the fitting process with a sloper again, but they payback when you get it right is amazing.  There are many style pieces to pick from, so you really do enjoy designing and the best part is the tweaking you can do to accommodate some body areas that don't exactly conform to the standard measurements.  I even use these when I make pants for Miss V--she needs both front and back crotch extensions for shorts and pants to fit her well, and we've hit on the perfect numbers so her shorts, pants and capris fit like they were made for her! :)

A recent find has been the Today's Fit line by Sandra Betzina published by Vogue.  A friend  made one up at the recent retreat and we all tried it on.  I was truly impressed by the fit, even though it was snugger than I liked, I purchased Vogue 1085 and sewed one up for myself and one for my sister, and while we have different body types, it looks great on us both.  I had to make a minor adjustment taking up the center seam of the sleeve (two-piece sleeves) about half an inch on each side to get the fit I wanted in the shoulders, but it will make a great fall top.  As soon as I get around to the finishing touches (hemming and putting the binding on the neck), I'll post a picture.  I've just ordered more of these patterns and will keep you posted as to how grandma body friendly they are.

July Sewing Retreat

I really love to sew for kids, and it's so neat when they get to have a say in what is made.  Miss V and I went to Hancock's recently and she picked out three dress patterns for herself, and a couple for her doll.  When I saw her first choice I immediately knew what fabric I wanted to use, and when I showed it to her she got pretty excited.  I knew we were going to have a hit.  The peasant neckline meant there would be fewer fitting issues.  Usually she's a challenge because she has a size 3 chest and needs a size 6 in length, but with the elastic around the neckline we didn't have to worry about it.  I inserted a generous piece then tried the unhemmed dress on her and was able to pull out the slack to get a really nice fit.  At our July sewing retreat I put in the hem, and when she came to visit the next week I finished everything.  She wore it to our jaunt to her favorite doll store the next week.  The fabric is from www.banberryplace.com and it sewed up beautifully.  Wheat you can't see is the pair of shorts made out of the green fabric underneath the dress--figured she should have matching shorts for school.

More placemats were on the agenda next.  I quilted six for my niece that my sister pieced, then pieced another set to be given as a gift for the holidays.  Got those quilted and they just await the binding, but the binding is made so when I have a little time I can get those finished.

I do have three granddaughters, but it seems like Miss V gets the lion's share of the kid sewing I do.  The other girls have so many hand-me-down clothes that I think they could go a month without a repeat, but nonetheless, it was their turn.

The four fabrics these outfits come from have been in my stash for quite some time.  I don't really remember for sure where they came from, but I really love batiks and just liked the four together.  I had decided who would get which one as the main fabric, but took them to show the girls and I was 100% wrong!  Good thing I did as now they can feel like they've had a chance to pick out stuff like their big sister.  Miss E chose the one with the animals--a future vet?  Miss E picked the starts, suns, moons & comets--a future astronomer?  You never know.

As you can see, the peasant neckline continues.  I actually had this Kwik Sew pattern picked out for the twins way before V picked hers out.  They all turned out so cute, though.  I can't wait to see them in the finished outfits.  When I went to try them on so I could adjust the neckline, I didn't think I'd get Miss E's back.

Our July retreat was attended by two friends and my sister.  My friend, Jane, sewed mostly on knit tops.  I am so glad she did because we all got to try some of them on and discovered some designs that looked pretty good on us.  As a matter of fact, my sister Kristine, friend Maggie and I all bought Vogue 1085 so we could make tops from it.  That will be the next project and I can't wait!

Week of Sewing Shorts

It's fun to pull out a piece of well-aged fabric and finally do something with it.  I think that I've had this for at least three years, and it's another one of those, "Now Why Did I Buy So Much of This?" kind of fabrics, but at least I've now used some of it.

In case it's difficult to see just what I'm talking about, this is a beige linen fabric and embroidered all over it are small pairs of flip flops.  I used this to make Miss V some walking shorts, which are long enough for her to wear to school when it starts back up in about six weeks.  I chose it because this is the first year she's been able to wear the "real deal" flip flops--no more straps across the back to hold them on.  When I told her that's why she got these this year, she got the biggest grin on her face, and I got to enjoy that six-year-old tooth missing on the bottom smile.  She's growing up on us.

I've also made one more pair this week to go under a tiered peasant dress.  I'm working on the dress now and will post pictures of her in it when it's all finished.

Pillow Cases from Leftovers

My sister just finished piecing a quilt for her son.  This is her first big project and it looks great.  (I'll try to get a picture up after it's finished.) After cutting out the two borders, there was a lot of fabric left over.  She asked about matching pillowcases, so while she put on the borders, I whipped up two pillowcases.  I sewed some of them on the machine and finished the seams on the serger.  The inside border was a 3" light fabric that reminded me of a wheat field.  The outside border was about the color the sky gets just before it turns completely dark.  I used the former for the body of the pillowcase and the latter for the cuff.  I decided to put a simple decorative stitch from my machine on the hem, and it looked as great as I thought it would.  The added benefit was that the motion of the stitches really secured the back side of the hem.

Getting Organized

It boggles my mind just how much sewing related stuff I've accumulated over the years--and we're talking over 40 here.  I'm trying to do some sorting and organizing and it is a major task, for sure.  Over the weekend when I was using my serger a lot, I had to climb under a table to get to the threads, and I decided that was just crazy, so I did something about it yesterday--I moved the chest the threads were in so it could be easily accessed--brilliant, right?  It was definitely one of those, "Now why didn't I do this earlier?" moments!

Not only did I move the chest, I decided to organize them and inventory them so I would quit duplicating (or triplicating) what I have.  There are four drawers in the chest, and I now have an inventoried set of wooly nylon, Maxilock and Maxilock Swirls all on a handy dandy spreadsheet.  It's amazing what a little time and energy can do to speed up finding what you need!  I have a great serger thread template in Excel if anyone is interested.

Sewing Retreat Day 2.5

After my last post, I decided I wanted to do something a bit different than work on placemats and napkins, so I cut out a pair of shorts for Miss V.  The fabric is a lightweight stretch denim with lots of fruits and flowers.  I have enough of this in my stash for many, many more pairs of shorts or Capris--not sure what I was thinking when I bought it, but it does look cute in biking shorts.  I used Pattern Master Child's Play v5 to draft the pattern to her measurements I took last weekend.  Can't wait to see her next week to see how they work out.  
Yesterday I pieced and did the binding on ten of these placemats, and also put binding on the ones my sister pieced from an earlier post.  Today I cut and did rolled hems on 14 placemats:  four blue print, six white print and four double-sided frog ones.  The frog mats are actually a project I started many years ago and never finished.  I had the double sided mats completed, but had never finished the napkins.  It is so nice to say that I actually have a project finished!

I hadn't done any rolled hems in years, but I have to say that my serger created all the ones I did today beautifully!  To make the napkins I first cut an 18" square (or two squares if double sided napkins are to be made).  Next I iron them and use a light weight sizing so they have a bit of body.  I then lay them out on my gridded table and use a salad plate upside down to round the corners.  I place the edge of the plate 4" from the corner I'm cutting away in both directions, then use my rotary cutter to cut the corner away.  This makes it much easier to serge a continuous edge around the napkin.

I use a 3 thread rolled edge hemming option with regular serger thread in the left needle, no right needle, and wooly nylon in the looper.  Sometimes, like today, I'll use the heavy wooly nylon in the upper looper as it really gives a nice fill to the hemline.  I start serging just past one of the corners and cut about 1/8" off as I go.  Since sergers really want straight paths, when I get to a curve I sort of push/pull the fabric around making sure I'm still cutting only that 1/8" off.  As I near the beginning spot, I hold out the starting thread tail so the cutter snips it away and make sure that there is a bit of the hem that is double serged before I serge off.  I cut the tail fairly close and then use Fray Block to seal the threads.